MEASUREMENTS NEEDED FOR TROUSERS AND DRESS MAKING

In my previous post on stuffed dummy, I stated what actually informed my choosing to post a tutorial on how to make a stuffed dummy. I had wanted to teach my students the various measurements to take when sewing a particular kind of clothing. I intended using the stuffed dummy as an alternative to a plastic dummy or human body as this will ensure the full participation of everyone of my students.

I have singled out trousers(pants) and dress as the subjects of our tutorial. We are going to see a graphical demonstration of the parts of the body that need to be measured or the measurements of the body that should be taken before embarking on the art of cutting and sewing trousers or a dress. NB: I shall use any of the pronouns “she” or “her” to represent the figure of our measurement.

Things you will need:

• Tape
• Tailor Chalk
• Writing Material

MEASUREMENTS FOR TROUSERS/PANTS

Measurement of trousers depends on the style you are making. However, we are going to focus on the measurements common to all styles of trousers ranging from fitted to loose trousers- waist, length, thigh, hips… 

Waist: Place the tape comfortably around the natural waist. Before measuring the waist, it is good to ask her whether or not she has eaten. This will enable you know how to adjust the tape and how many inches allowances you need to leave out when cutting/stitching. If for instance, she has not eaten as at when you are taking the measurements, there is the possibility of the trousers’ waist getting too tight.

Thigh: Measuring the thigh is needful especially where you are making fitted trousers. Thus, how fitted or loose the trousers looks on her depends on the measurement of the thigh. Place the tape around the thickest part of the thigh. If you are making loose trousers, you can still ask her, while the tape is around her thigh, how loose she desires the trousers to be and adjust accordingly.

Length: The length depends on whether you are making a three quarter or an ankle length trousers. Place the tape on the natural waist down to the desired length. For ankle length trousers, measure the width of the ankle by placing the tape around the ankle or around the calf for three-quarter trousers.

Hips: Hips: Place the tape closely around the fullest part of the seat. This could be the upper, middle or lower part of the seat. The essence of this is to avoid the trousers having a flattening effect on the bums after sewing.

MEASUREMENTS FOR DRESSES/GOWNS

Measurements for gown/dress making are all encompassing. What I mean by this is that it cuts across every other clothing measurement, such that if you can know all parts to measure for a dress, then measurements for other clothing will be easier, especially blouses and skirts.

Measurements for gown depends on the style but we are going to dwell more on the common measurements in gown making- full length, half-length, sleeve, bust, waist, hips, back-width…

Full Length: As the name indicates, gown is mostly a full length clothing covering the shoulder down to below or above the knee. Measurement of the full length is unavoidable in gown making. Place the tape on the shoulder close to the neck down to below or above the knee or to the desired length. When measuring the full length, have her stand upright without bending forward. Let her respond to your question on the desired length by sensing your touch on her leg.

Half Length: This measurement is very important when sewing a flared or tubed(off shoulder) gown, in which case the gown is divided into two sections- the upper and lower sections. So, the half length is measured for the upper section. Place the tape on the shoulder near the neck down to  somewhere under the bust or on the abdomen, depending on the style and desired length.

Sleeve: The sleeve may be long or short sleeve.

For the long sleeve: Before you measure, make sure her elbow is bent, as in the picture. Place the tape between the edges of the shoulder and the upper arm down to the wrist. Also, place the tape around the thickest part of the upper arm and around the wrist.

  

For the short sleeve: You will need her to guide you on the length of the short sleeve. With the arm slightly raised, measure the inside of the arm from the armpit to her desired length. Measure also round the thickest part of the upper arm. However, you may choose to do the measurement on the outside of the arm rather than the inside.

Bust: Place the tape around the fullest part of the upper body across the back. How loose or tight the tape laps around the bust depends on the fitting of the gown. So, ask her as you measure the bust how fitted she would want the gown and adjust accordingly.

Waist: The waist measurement is needed for fitted gowns, not for flared gowns. Place the tape comfortably around the natural waist. Before measuring the waist, it is good to ask her whether or not she has eaten. This will enable you know how to adjust the tape and how many inches allowances you need to leave out when cutting/stitching. If for instance, she has not eaten as at when you are taking the measurements, there is the possibility of the gown’s waist getting too tight. See picture above.

Hips: This measurement is suitable for fitted gowns. Place the tape closely around the fullest part of the seat. This could be the upper, middle or lower part of the seat. The essence of this is to avoid the skirt having a flattening effect on the seat or bums. See picture above.

Back Width: At a point halfway down the armhole, measure across the back as in the picture.

 

Questions, contributions and suggestions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED FOR SKIRT AND BLOUSE MAKING

In my previous post on stuffed dummy, I stated what actually informed my choosing to post a tutorial on how to make a stuffed dummy. I had wanted to teach my students the various measurements to take when sewing a particular kind of clothing. I intended using the stuffed dummy as an alternative to plastic dummy or human body as this will ensure the full participation of everyone of my students. I have singled out skirt and blouse as the subjects of our tutorial. We are going to see a graphical demonstration of the parts of the body that need to be measured or the measurements of the body that should be taken before embarking on the art of cutting and sewing a skirt or a blouse. NB: I shall use any of the pronouns “she” and “her” to represent the figure of our measurement.

Things you will need:

• Tape
• Tailor Chalk
• Writing Material

MEASUREMENTS OF SKIRTS

Generally, measurement is influenced by the style of skirt you want to sew. However, there are measurements common to all skirt styles, these we are going to focus on- the waist, the hips and the length.

Waist: Place the tape comfortably around the natural waist. Before measuring the waist, it is good to ask her whether or not she has eaten. This will enable you know how to adjust the tape and how many inches allowances you will need to leave when cutting/stitching. If for instance, she has not eaten as at when you are taking the measurements, there is the possibility of the skirt’s waist getting too tight.

Hips: Place the tape closely around the fullest part of the seat. This could be the upper, middle or lower part of the seat. The essence of this is to avoid the skirt having a flattening effect on the seat or bums.

Length: This depends on whether or not you are sewing a long or short skirt. Place the tape on her natural waist(she shouldn’t look downwards while you do this). As you try to guess the desired length, touch different sections on the leg and ask her intermittently if that is where she desires the length to be. Like I said earlier, she should stand upright without looking downwards and should respond to your question by sensing your touch on her leg.

MEASUREMENTS OF BLOUSES

As was the case with the skirt, measurement of the blouse also depends on the style of blouse you are sewing. But, we are going to focus on measurements common to all blouses- bust, waist, sleeve, hips, back width, back neck to the waist, shoulder to waist.

Bust: Place the tape around the fullest part of the upper body across the back. How loose or tight the tape laps round the body will depend on the fitting of the blouse. So, ask her, as you measure the bust how fitted she wants the blouse and adjust accordingly.

Waist: Place the tape round the natural waist and adjust the fittings based on her preference. The waist measurement is necessary when sewing a fitted blouse. If you are making a loose blouse, you need not measure the waist since the bust measurement will do. For instance, if you are sewing Nigerian buba blouse, you needn’t measure the waist when taking the measurements. Be sure also whether or not she has eaten so as to adjust the waist measurement accordingly. See the picture above on waist measurement.

Sleeve: The measurement and length of the sleeve depends on the style chosen. Aside other styles and pattern of sleeves, we shall focus on the styles common to all sleeve- the long and short sleeves.

Long Sleeve: Before you measure the sleeve, make sure the elbow is bent. Place the tape on the point between the shoulder edge and the upper arm edge down to the wrist. Also ask her while you place the tape on the wrist where specifically she wants the sleeve length. Some people prefer their long sleeve longer than the wrist while others go for ones shorter or exactly on the wrist. While the elbow is still bent, place the tape round the thickest part of the upper arm and also measure round the wrist.

    

Short Sleeve: You will also need her to guide you on the length of the short sleeve. With the arm slightly raised, measure the inside of the arm from the armpit to her desired length. Measure also round the thickest part of the upper arm. However, you may choose to do the measurement on the outside of the arm rather than the inside.

Hips: Measurement of the hips is very important to avoid having a rather too tight blouse on the hips area especially for long blouses. Place the tape round the fullest part of the seat. Ask her, as you do this, how fitted she wants it to be and adjust accordingly.

Back Width: At a point halfway down the armhole, measure across the back as in the picture.

Back Neck To Waist: Place the tape on the nape bone at the back of the neck down to the desired length of the blouse. This measurement depends on the style of blouse you are making. It is also important if you are making a high-necked blouse.

Shoulder To Waist: Place the tape on the shoulder close to the neck down through the bust to the desired length of the blouse. This measures the full length of the blouse.

Note: Remember to add inch allowances when cutting the fabric.

Questions, contributions and suggestions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.

SEWING MACHINE OILING AND MAINTENANCE- THE FACE COVER AND STITCH REGULATOR COMPARTMENTS

Just like every other machinery, a sewing machine needs utmost maintenance so as to prolong the life of this machine. That is why you should not only dust your machine before use, it should also be lubricated for maximum functioning. It is not enough to clean, wipe/dust/lubricate the contacting parts of the machine, we should also open and dust/lubricate the inner bearings of the machine, especially the parts that are prone to trapping dusts and fabric lint and fluff. If your machine is in daily use, you should lubricate it daily. Otherwise, oiling should be applied two or three times a month. In this lesson, we are going to clean and lubricate the Face Cover and the Stitch Regulator’s compartments. I incorporated picture diagrams of every step for a better understanding of this tutorial. Also, read my post on the labeled parts of a Sewing Machine to get more acquainted with the sewing machine parts.

Things you will need:

Small and large Screw Drivers

Lubricant/Oil

A Duster

  

Step 1: For the Face Cover- Unscrew the machine Face Cover(picture 1). This action will release the Face Cover with attached Thread Take-up Spring and the Tension Disc. Dust and lubricate these parts. NB: Keep the screws safe, better to place them on a magnet). Then, go for the compartment(picture 2). Using the duster, wipe, clean and lubricate every parts/bearings in the Face Cover compartment. Replace the Face Cover, screw properly and tight. Apply drops of oil on the Presser Bar Thump Screw and on the openings around it(picture 3).

      

Step 2: For the Stitch Regulator- this is another bearing of the machine that should be lubricated. The Stitch Regulator is in constant use each time we sew/stitch, hence it shouldn’t be neglected. Carefully unscrew the thump screw on the Stitch Regulating Plate. Using the small screw driver, unscrew the other two screws. Open the Stitch Regulator compartment(picture 4), sweep up, clean, wipe and lubricate the compartment and every bearing. Having lubricated, move the Stitch Regulator up and down for some seconds, then replace the Stitch Regulator Plate and ensure that the screws are tightened properly. 

 

Step 4: Tread the machine continuously for 20-30 seconds to enable the oil circulate properly. This action is a necessary follow-up after lubricating the machine.

 

Questions, suggestions and contributions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.

SEWING MACHINE OILING AND MAINTENANCE- THE FEED DOG AND THE SHUTTLE RACE

Just like every other machinery, a sewing machine needs utmost maintenance so as to prolong the life of this machine. That is why you should not only dust your machine before use, it should also be lubricated for maximum functioning. It is not enough to clean, wipe/dust/lubricate the contacting parts of the machine, we should also open and dust/lubricate the inner bearings of the machine, especially the parts that are prone to trapping dusts and fabric lint and fluff. If your machine is in daily use, you should lubricate it daily. Otherwise, oiling should be applied two or three times a month. In this lesson, we are going to clean and lubricate the Feed Dog and the Shuttle Race. I incorporated picture diagrams of every step for a better understanding of this tutorial. Also, read my post on the labeled parts of a Sewing Machine to get more acquainted with the sewing machine parts.

Things you will need:

Small and large Screw Driver

Sewing Machine Oil

A Duster

Step 1: Turn the Balance Wheel towards you, this action will raise the Needle Bar(Picture 1). Raise the Presser Foot Lever(picture 2), loosen the Presser Foot Thumb Screw to release the Presser Foot(picture 3). This is to give us more room for the next step. Keep the Presser Foot and its screw aside. ( Better to place the screws on a magnet to avoid misplacing any of them).

 

Step 2: Loosen the Needle Plate Screw and take out the Needle Plate(picture 4). Unscrew the Feed Dog (picture 5), wipe and oil it. Sweep the Feed Dog compartment off of every lint. Go for the shuttle race roof and unscrew(picture 6). NB: Clean and wipe as you loosen.

       

Step 3: Now, go for the Shuttle Race. Make sure the Needle Bar is raised to its highest by turning the Balance Wheel towards you. Open the Slide( picture 7), remove the Bobbin Case from the Shuttle Race(see my post on how to remove the Bobbin Case). Push aside the left and right Latches holding the Shuttle Race(picture 8), remove the Shuttle Race Back and the Shuttle Body(picture 9). Wipe each off of every accumulated lint and clean with oil. Do same to the Shuttle Race compartment. NB: Do not over oil to avoid having your fabric stained when you sew.

      

Step 4: Tread the machine continuously for about 10-15 seconds so as to enable the oil circulate round the machine bearings (see my post on how to Tread the Machine as a Starter). Then replace all the loosened parts back following the steps above but in a reverse order( from picture 9 to 1). Remember to tighten every screw properly and to push back the left and right Latches holding the Shuttle Race Back. See the picture of all the parts below.

Questions, contributions and suggestions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.

HOW TO FIX THREAD ON A SEWING MACHINE

You cannot sew or stitch with the sewing machine without a thread. Fixing thread on your machine is one of the most important things to know about machine sewing. There are two kinds of thread to be fixed on the machine before you start- the upper and under threads. The under thread is reeled on what is called the bobbin. (Please, read my post on the labeled parts of a sewing machine, this will help you appreciate this tutorial better).

STEP 1: Get a fully wound bobbin(the under thread) and a reel of thread(the upper thread). Turn the balance wheel towards you, this will raise the needle bar lever, the needle bar and the needle. Place your feet on the treadle to prevent the balance wheel from moving, this action will steady the needle bar from moving too.

STEP 2: To fix the upper thread- place the reel of thread on the spool pin, pick the free end of the thread, pass it through the parts numbered in the picture serially especially the tread take-up spring, the needle bar lever and finally through the eye of the needle. Draw out about 4-5 inches of thread from the needle.

STEP 3: To fix the under thread- pick the wound bobbin, insert it into the bobbin case. Draw out about 3-4 inches long of the free end of the thread from the the bobbin case(see picture). Turn the balance wheel towards you, this will raise the needle bar. NB: you cannot fix the under thread without having the needle bar raised. Open the slide,place the bobbin case on the centre stud of the shuttle, allowing both to fit into each other. Hold up the bobbin case latch, allowing the bobbin case to set into the notch at the top of the shuttle race. Release the bobbin case latch. Leave the free end of the thread to hang. Then, close the slide. Now, 

you are ready! Start sewing! (Read my post on how to sew as a starter)

   

I do hope this is helpful. Questions, suggestions and contributions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.

HOW TO SEW WITH THE SEWING MACHINE AS A STARTER

I could remember when I tried sewing with the machine as a starter. I usually call that my début performance in the stitching world. It was really an experience but as time went on,I became more perfect that I could treadle the machine without fixing my gaze on the balance wheel. As a starter, you are likely to run the balance wheel in the opposite direction while treading. This will result in having thread hitched in the shuttle race, having too loose stitches, breaking the needle or the thread. However, practice makes perfection, continuous trial and failure would definitely yield a better result( I am a live example). Thus, in order for you to appreciate the art of treading the machine, I have, as usual, included picture steps on this tutorial. Please, read my post on the labeled parts of a sewing machine, as a preliminary. This will help you get along well with this tutorial.
STEP 1: Get a comfortable seat, (preferably a stool) such that your feet are placed on the machine treadle when you are seated. Do the following- raise the lever of the presser bar, insert the bobbin in the shuttle race,  fix the upper thread( see my post on how to fix thread on the sewing machine) and check that both the upper and under thread are both laid under the presser foot(see pictures).

          
    
STEP 2: while the presser foot lever is still raised, place your right hand on the balance wheel and move the balance wheel towards you as in the picture.Watch the needle bar as you do this, you will notice the needle bar moves up and down and the treadle tilts up and down like a see-saw. Continue to turn the balance wheel towards you while your feet are lightly placed on the treadle.Allow the treadle to control the gentle motion and move your feet in line with the movement of the treadle. Do this from slow to fast until you get a perfect movement without mistakenly treading in the opposite direction.
 
STEP 3: Place your fabric under the presser foot, lower the presser foot lever( you will notice the presser foot clamps the fabric to the feed dog).Placing your right hand on the balance wheel and your left hand on the fabric, move the balance wheel towards you. As you do this, the needle bar pushes the needle down into the fabric, then start treading the machine as you did in step 3 above. As you treadle, place the left hand on the fabric and let your right hand slightly pull the fabric forward as the feed dog brings the fabric forward inch by inch.
 

STEP 4: When you are done with the sewing, do the following to remove the fabric from the machine- stop the motion of the treadle by holding down the balance wheel and concurrently stop moving your feet up and down the treadle.Raise the lever of the presser foot, move the balance wheel towards you( this will release the fabric from the clench of the presser foot and needle bar). Cut off the upper and under thread from the fabric. Great job and congratulations!
     

I hope this is helpful. Questions, suggestions and contributions are highly welcome. I strongly recommend you go through my post on the labeled parts of a sewing  machine. It will solve the technicality of this tutorial.
You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.