MEASUREMENTS NEEDED FOR TROUSERS AND DRESS MAKING

In my previous post on stuffed dummy, I stated what actually informed my choosing to post a tutorial on how to make a stuffed dummy. I had wanted to teach my students the various measurements to take when sewing a particular kind of clothing. I intended using the stuffed dummy as an alternative to a plastic dummy or human body as this will ensure the full participation of everyone of my students.

I have singled out trousers(pants) and dress as the subjects of our tutorial. We are going to see a graphical demonstration of the parts of the body that need to be measured or the measurements of the body that should be taken before embarking on the art of cutting and sewing trousers or a dress. NB: I shall use any of the pronouns “she” or “her” to represent the figure of our measurement.

Things you will need:

• Tape
• Tailor Chalk
• Writing Material

MEASUREMENTS FOR TROUSERS/PANTS

Measurement of trousers depends on the style you are making. However, we are going to focus on the measurements common to all styles of trousers ranging from fitted to loose trousers- waist, length, thigh, hips… 

Waist: Place the tape comfortably around the natural waist. Before measuring the waist, it is good to ask her whether or not she has eaten. This will enable you know how to adjust the tape and how many inches allowances you need to leave out when cutting/stitching. If for instance, she has not eaten as at when you are taking the measurements, there is the possibility of the trousers’ waist getting too tight.

Thigh: Measuring the thigh is needful especially where you are making fitted trousers. Thus, how fitted or loose the trousers looks on her depends on the measurement of the thigh. Place the tape around the thickest part of the thigh. If you are making loose trousers, you can still ask her, while the tape is around her thigh, how loose she desires the trousers to be and adjust accordingly.

Length: The length depends on whether you are making a three quarter or an ankle length trousers. Place the tape on the natural waist down to the desired length. For ankle length trousers, measure the width of the ankle by placing the tape around the ankle or around the calf for three-quarter trousers.

Hips: Hips: Place the tape closely around the fullest part of the seat. This could be the upper, middle or lower part of the seat. The essence of this is to avoid the trousers having a flattening effect on the bums after sewing.

MEASUREMENTS FOR DRESSES/GOWNS

Measurements for gown/dress making are all encompassing. What I mean by this is that it cuts across every other clothing measurement, such that if you can know all parts to measure for a dress, then measurements for other clothing will be easier, especially blouses and skirts.

Measurements for gown depends on the style but we are going to dwell more on the common measurements in gown making- full length, half-length, sleeve, bust, waist, hips, back-width…

Full Length: As the name indicates, gown is mostly a full length clothing covering the shoulder down to below or above the knee. Measurement of the full length is unavoidable in gown making. Place the tape on the shoulder close to the neck down to below or above the knee or to the desired length. When measuring the full length, have her stand upright without bending forward. Let her respond to your question on the desired length by sensing your touch on her leg.

Half Length: This measurement is very important when sewing a flared or tubed(off shoulder) gown, in which case the gown is divided into two sections- the upper and lower sections. So, the half length is measured for the upper section. Place the tape on the shoulder near the neck down to  somewhere under the bust or on the abdomen, depending on the style and desired length.

Sleeve: The sleeve may be long or short sleeve.

For the long sleeve: Before you measure, make sure her elbow is bent, as in the picture. Place the tape between the edges of the shoulder and the upper arm down to the wrist. Also, place the tape around the thickest part of the upper arm and around the wrist.

  

For the short sleeve: You will need her to guide you on the length of the short sleeve. With the arm slightly raised, measure the inside of the arm from the armpit to her desired length. Measure also round the thickest part of the upper arm. However, you may choose to do the measurement on the outside of the arm rather than the inside.

Bust: Place the tape around the fullest part of the upper body across the back. How loose or tight the tape laps around the bust depends on the fitting of the gown. So, ask her as you measure the bust how fitted she would want the gown and adjust accordingly.

Waist: The waist measurement is needed for fitted gowns, not for flared gowns. Place the tape comfortably around the natural waist. Before measuring the waist, it is good to ask her whether or not she has eaten. This will enable you know how to adjust the tape and how many inches allowances you need to leave out when cutting/stitching. If for instance, she has not eaten as at when you are taking the measurements, there is the possibility of the gown’s waist getting too tight. See picture above.

Hips: This measurement is suitable for fitted gowns. Place the tape closely around the fullest part of the seat. This could be the upper, middle or lower part of the seat. The essence of this is to avoid the skirt having a flattening effect on the seat or bums. See picture above.

Back Width: At a point halfway down the armhole, measure across the back as in the picture.

 

Questions, contributions and suggestions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED FOR SKIRT AND BLOUSE MAKING

In my previous post on stuffed dummy, I stated what actually informed my choosing to post a tutorial on how to make a stuffed dummy. I had wanted to teach my students the various measurements to take when sewing a particular kind of clothing. I intended using the stuffed dummy as an alternative to plastic dummy or human body as this will ensure the full participation of everyone of my students. I have singled out skirt and blouse as the subjects of our tutorial. We are going to see a graphical demonstration of the parts of the body that need to be measured or the measurements of the body that should be taken before embarking on the art of cutting and sewing a skirt or a blouse. NB: I shall use any of the pronouns “she” and “her” to represent the figure of our measurement.

Things you will need:

• Tape
• Tailor Chalk
• Writing Material

MEASUREMENTS OF SKIRTS

Generally, measurement is influenced by the style of skirt you want to sew. However, there are measurements common to all skirt styles, these we are going to focus on- the waist, the hips and the length.

Waist: Place the tape comfortably around the natural waist. Before measuring the waist, it is good to ask her whether or not she has eaten. This will enable you know how to adjust the tape and how many inches allowances you will need to leave when cutting/stitching. If for instance, she has not eaten as at when you are taking the measurements, there is the possibility of the skirt’s waist getting too tight.

Hips: Place the tape closely around the fullest part of the seat. This could be the upper, middle or lower part of the seat. The essence of this is to avoid the skirt having a flattening effect on the seat or bums.

Length: This depends on whether or not you are sewing a long or short skirt. Place the tape on her natural waist(she shouldn’t look downwards while you do this). As you try to guess the desired length, touch different sections on the leg and ask her intermittently if that is where she desires the length to be. Like I said earlier, she should stand upright without looking downwards and should respond to your question by sensing your touch on her leg.

MEASUREMENTS OF BLOUSES

As was the case with the skirt, measurement of the blouse also depends on the style of blouse you are sewing. But, we are going to focus on measurements common to all blouses- bust, waist, sleeve, hips, back width, back neck to the waist, shoulder to waist.

Bust: Place the tape around the fullest part of the upper body across the back. How loose or tight the tape laps round the body will depend on the fitting of the blouse. So, ask her, as you measure the bust how fitted she wants the blouse and adjust accordingly.

Waist: Place the tape round the natural waist and adjust the fittings based on her preference. The waist measurement is necessary when sewing a fitted blouse. If you are making a loose blouse, you need not measure the waist since the bust measurement will do. For instance, if you are sewing Nigerian buba blouse, you needn’t measure the waist when taking the measurements. Be sure also whether or not she has eaten so as to adjust the waist measurement accordingly. See the picture above on waist measurement.

Sleeve: The measurement and length of the sleeve depends on the style chosen. Aside other styles and pattern of sleeves, we shall focus on the styles common to all sleeve- the long and short sleeves.

Long Sleeve: Before you measure the sleeve, make sure the elbow is bent. Place the tape on the point between the shoulder edge and the upper arm edge down to the wrist. Also ask her while you place the tape on the wrist where specifically she wants the sleeve length. Some people prefer their long sleeve longer than the wrist while others go for ones shorter or exactly on the wrist. While the elbow is still bent, place the tape round the thickest part of the upper arm and also measure round the wrist.

    

Short Sleeve: You will also need her to guide you on the length of the short sleeve. With the arm slightly raised, measure the inside of the arm from the armpit to her desired length. Measure also round the thickest part of the upper arm. However, you may choose to do the measurement on the outside of the arm rather than the inside.

Hips: Measurement of the hips is very important to avoid having a rather too tight blouse on the hips area especially for long blouses. Place the tape round the fullest part of the seat. Ask her, as you do this, how fitted she wants it to be and adjust accordingly.

Back Width: At a point halfway down the armhole, measure across the back as in the picture.

Back Neck To Waist: Place the tape on the nape bone at the back of the neck down to the desired length of the blouse. This measurement depends on the style of blouse you are making. It is also important if you are making a high-necked blouse.

Shoulder To Waist: Place the tape on the shoulder close to the neck down through the bust to the desired length of the blouse. This measures the full length of the blouse.

Note: Remember to add inch allowances when cutting the fabric.

Questions, contributions and suggestions are highly welcome.

You would also like to read JaynnoraStaples and JayFashion.